Finding Nemo

Steven Spielberg has a lot to answer for. Yes, he's helped to create a number of brilliant films like E.T., Jurassic Park and Schindler's List, but he also partly responsible for a whole generation who are a little bit apprehensive about going in to the sea. Don't get me wrong, I love swimming or surfing in the ocean - it's just every time the water gets beyond waist height, I'm sure that John Williams' famous score will be begin (du-duh... du-duh...) and that the only thing that could be beneath me is a fifteen foot long Great White Shark. I know it's stupid, but I don't think I'm alone - lots of thirty somethings I have spoken to have Jaws syndrome!

The fear of Speilberg's monster (rather than the actual creatures, which are majestic and awe inspiring) means that when I was asked whether I wanted to go snorkelling, last time I was in Bali, I hesitated. Thankfully, I agreed and ended up having an absolutely incredible experience. So, I decided that Steve and I should return to the laid backed little island of Nusa Lembongan and have another go. I just hoped Steve would be as impressed.

We had managed to barter with some local ferrymen in Sanur and almost halved their price for a fast boat across the Badung Strait to Nusa Lembongan. The captain blasted his way across the notoriously dangerous choppy waters and within forty-five minutes we were watching surfers attempt the ominously named Lacerations reef.

The gentlemen we had purchased our tickets from had recommended a friend who would take us snorkelling. His name, although I'm fairly sure not the name his mother gave him, was Captain Nemo. So into his character, was Nemo, that his friend had put a label on me before we left Bali, which said 'Whale' - at least I hoped it was a literary reference rather than a comment on my weight.

Captain Nemo promptly welcomed us aboard his vessel - painted orange and white, like a clown fish - and took us around the coast towards two spots that he claimed would be perfect for us.

Our first destination was nicknamed 'The Wall', as it was where a neighbouring island met a small reef and then plunged into a deep ravine. Steve and I wrestled with our mask, snorkel and flippers for a few minutes before we sat on the edge of the boat and dropped backwards into the emerald waters.

I'd been a bit nervous about it to be honest, not because of the Jaws thing, but because I had wanted it to be as good as last time. Maybe I had been overly nostalgic and it wasn't as good as my rose-tinted glasses had remembered? I needn't have worried. One glance under the surface revealed an incredible vista; fish of all shapes, colours and sizes swam beneath us. 

For the next fifteen minutes the tide took us first one way and then the other along this extraordinary aquatic shelf. We were reluctant to get out of the water, but Nemo reassured us that the mangroves would offer us just as good an experience. Five minutes later and we were both back in the warm sea and, if anything, the waters around us were teeming with even more life than before. The ocean floor was covered in a plethora of corals - all different shapes and colours - creating an almost other worldly landscape. Adding to our enjoyment of the dive was the fact that Nemo had given us some bread and so the fish swarmed around us and ate out of our hand! A dream-like encounter that we won't forget in a hurry.

Anything we did that afternoon would've been an anticlimax, but we did enjoy renting another moped and exploring the rest of the island. Nusa Lembongan is a world a way from the hectic roads of south Bali and so we weaved our way around numerous potholes in peace until we found this great bridge...

 

...and then made our way to Dream Beach where we ate a traditional Balanese meal of Nasi Goreng and then had one last swim before our boat journey home.

The swim wasn't exactly what you would call relaxing - big waves pummelled us and a we had to battle with a strong current that tried to pull us out to sea. Exhilarating is probably a more accurate description. We enjoyed it so much that we were almost late for our trip back to Bali! Steve even managed to rip open the crotch of his shorts (again) whilst long jumping a gap in the seafront wall. Luckily, our boat was sat waiting for us and we headed back to Sanur.

During our final week in Indonesia, we also battled the elements on an epic six hour round journey to the centre of the island, as well as managing another surf and a few journeys over the brand new 12km long road bridge.

We said goodbye to Bali by sitting down for a meal in a beachside restaurant with Grishka, Meredith and Scarlet. It was a great way to end two fantastic weeks on the island. We'd made some great new memories and some even better new friends.